We saw this tonight. It's now Paula's favourite film and I consider it excellent too. The whole look is very grimy and dark with occasional light patches, at the end of the tunnel as it were. The story is romantic, a fairy tale embedded in the Spanish revolution, but refreshingly unsentimental and easily Del Toro's best since Chronos.
It would be good if he were given this latitude with Hellboy 2 but I don't expect the studio to be that brave.